Where to Eat

What people come here to eat

This isn't a list of a hundred places: it's the four things worth eating and where they're done right.

The market hall in the morning and the seafood restaurants of La Marina at night. What's in season changes every month, and it shows.

Four streets with more taverns than doorways. Done standing up, at several stops, no booking.

Whatever came off the boats that morning, with nothing but oil and garlic. Order what they suggest, not what you had in mind.

A long table, starting at two and ending whenever it ends. Booking a day ahead is the norm.

The city

Check what's on before making plans: there's almost always something, and it's rarely advertised where you'd expect.